The Tower Sub, my latest design

UNLIKELY1

DOOhh.. Never mind

yes it is a good tool for the money. alot of people use a circle jig on there router to cut holes this size. I would rather use one of these then add hours to my router (I use it enough as it is). The drill press hardly has to work at all.
notice it gets a little hot on the inside, (bussiness end of the blade)
A little 3 in 1 oil helps.
I have figured out a way of sharpening the blade if your interested....

furball zen

Havent used it enough lol, but ill keep that in mind :)

department76

your drill press method looks nice. i'm guessing most casual garage operations don't have a drill press lol, i certainly don't!

furball zen

The one i have only cost $40 at Biglots, granted its only a 6", but indispensable.

UNLIKELY1

you dont have to spend alot on one. Harbor freight has some decent ones under $100.

I like this one from Grizzly.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-Sp...ll-Press/G7942
I have seen them on sale for $75

I got this Delta for a good price. lke $300. I like it cuz it has a large table. It has a laser sight thingy but I have never taken the time to set it up.
I still like my Dremel stand/drill press. I think I have just about every attachment ever made. The router attachment works great for doing inlays in softer woods.

department76

wow i wouldn't have thought they can be that cheap. i'll have to remember that!

Irish2685

Department, sweet design. Unlikely, awesome woodworking. Once I get my own house and my own garage, I plan on working on a few wood projects of my own.

UNLIKELY1

Hey D!! Your PM inbox is full.

department76

k, it's un-full.

furball zen

Is that the opposite of un-empty? lmao

UNLIKELY1

Finally an update. The baffle/base is finished. Pretty straight forward. We added some roundovers here and there to give it more of a finished look.
I had a little trouble getting the recess for the woofer just right. I wanted to give it a lot of MDF meat to screw into and still get closs to the required 2 1/4" floor to flange distance.
Cosequently I was unable to do a roundover on the back side to help with air flow. I feel Ok not doing that because the driver will be recessed enough that it shouldnt be an issue.
Department, Once you go to mount the driver you will see what I mean. If I had the actual woofer here I probably would be able to do more. But I am confident everything will work fine.

Some pics













Next I am going to install the rounded gussets on the baffle turns.
I had trouble finding pre made cove trim with the radius I needed.
So I made my own.

I laminated 2 pcs of 1 1/8" thick MDF together.


Then using a forstner bit on the press I bored down threw the block.






Then I cut it off on the Bandsaw to get a square with a big whole in it.


I was able to pull it apart right on the glue seam, giving me 2 halves


Then I cut those into quarters on the bandsaw. One split on me.


I repeated this process untill I had enough. Here is a pic of them just siting where they will be once the cab is all together.




I am going to work on putting all of this together tonight.

furball zen

Dayum Gina!! +1! :)

department76

end-box.

the sub box to end all boxes.

UNLIKELY1

I am hammering away getting this done. I have run into a couple snags, but plan on shipping tomorrow, tue at the latest. I want to get more pics of final assembly up tonight, tho it looks like tommorow.
I am thinking of building a larger version of this using 12" or 15" drivers for myself.

department76

plans in progress

Zenshi

Can't wait! Make sure you post the pics of yourselves AFTER hearing the sub...you know the one where your hair is pointing straight back after getting hit with the shockwave of bass.

UNLIKELY1

HEEE HEE ....Yeah baby!!

department76

hahaha. this is no where near big enough or powerfull enough for that type of effect...

UNLIKELY1

No but it's going to sound great for what you have designed it for. Its better then it sitting on a shelf. I think you will be surprised at how much of that 240 w you will be able to use. I read it can handle and needs that much to really shine.

department76

yup. people are afraid of their drivers exploding when the breach xmax, but what they don't consider is what the mechanical Xlim is, or the "real" limit of mechanical excursion. Xmax is simply the limit extent of linear excursion... big difference lol. i.e. the dayton ND woofers have a 4mm xmax, but something rediculous like a 20mm xlim... similar, but can't be verified exact, for the RS's. look on my youtube channel for the video on my center channel. the RS150's supposedly have an xmax of only 4mm, yet they can move a lot more than that and still sound crystal clear.