Spray Painting

furball zen

Only partially correct :) They use oil in the air tools, not in the air tank or blow nozzle :)
My point is, most of those cleaners are flammable, use your head before using a heat source with them.

jfkfhhfj

Compressor air is extremely dirty unless you use a proper filter. the air contains dirt, oil and water wall which will destroy your works surface.

And monty is correct oil often does get in the tank... hence they sell oil filters..

monkeyjpeg

Hi i'm new here. I know the thread is quite old now, but my questions refer exactly to Timberwolf's explanations for spray painting. That's why i didn't open a new thread.
I found it by far the best tutorial i available on the web, so that's another reason why i decided to post even if it's old. (Good things need time :-)

The only two questions left for me are the following:

1. If i just painted my part with the final color coat and want to add clear coats, should i let the color coats dry or should i start with the clear coats right after having finished the color coat (with the obligate pause of 10 - 15 min) ?

The same question for primer and color coats. Should the primer dry first or should one start directly after priming with adding the color coats ?

2. When adding the primer, should i follow the same directions as for color coats ? i.e. first a tack coat for the primer than 10 -15min pausing, then another primer coat, again 10-15 min pausing and so on until the primer coats appear to be uniform ? Or is priming a "one round task" ?

Thanks for any help

snake eyes

Don't we all just love resurrecting old (bu damn good) threads :P

anyway, I have a Antec p182 casing that i want to spray the inside black of.

what i plan on doing is sandblasting the whole casing clean before i spray anything...is this alright? would i still need to use some kind of thinners or something on it??

basically what my plan of action is/was, first mask places I dont want painted, like the top panel that im not gona remove then the plan is to sandblast the case, put on 3 or 4 coats of acid etching primer (waiting 30-45 mins between each) then 3 or 4 coats of flat black bumper/automotive spray (also waiting 30-45 mins between each) and then leaving to dry for 24-48 hours.

Is this process ok, or am i missing something?

furball zen

Not really, but i would try to use a bead blaster instead. Uses glass beads to remove the paint and since its glass and round, not sand with multiple corners, it doesnt scratch the surface.

snake eyes

ok....I wont be able to find one of those im affraid, but not going to TOTALLY sandblast the casing clean....just going to roughen it up a bit.

furball zen

Then use sand paper. You wont 'rough' anything up but the metal itself, it will remove the paint.

But, you really dont need to do anything if you use a self etching primer, or an engine enamel. Seems there is some paranoia around getting a good surface to start with, its really not that hard. But it is hard if you have to cover up gouges in the metal.

snake eyes

...well, gona rough sandblast and sand paper it :P

found some black etch primer, going to only put that on...see how it comes out, and if need be, I can still paint over that :D

snake eyes

ok.... I have snadblasted the casing, but have a few questions...

does the sandblasting HAVE TO be uniform?
wont spraying onto a non uniformly sandblasted piece of metal cover any places that aren't sanded the same?

whatever spots i missed I am going to sand, does the sanding have to be uniform to the sandblasting, what grit sandpaper do u suggest for the prep stages?