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Old 12-22-2005, 04:22 AM   #61
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what do you recommend in terms of tape? i usually use 3M's blue painter's tape, but because of it's large size, it's harder to use in smaller areas. If that's the case, i switch over to masking tape. However, the masking tape is usually a bit harder to peel off. any suggestions?
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Old 02-17-2006, 05:49 PM   #62
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What is the best way to get the paint smooth? I have never painted a case, but I have spray painted other flat metal objects and I always get uneven results.
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Old 02-17-2006, 07:49 PM   #63
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Sand -> Primer a few coats -> Paint a few coats

Hasn't failed me yet. Be sure to buy all the same brands of paint/primer, tends to help.

http://xoxideforums.com/showthread.php?t=18049

Very helpful guide, can probably answer most of your questions.
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:10 PM   #64
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If you want smooth lines in a pattern that you're taping (i.e., you're painting one color over the top of another one like stripes or something), then you need plastic tape. This is what automotive customization shops use. It's not cheap, but not too pricey and worth it. It's not usually out on the shelf, so you'll have to ask for it...but the guys behind the counter at the auto supply shop will know what it is. It's usually blue, and really narrow. This is so you can stretch and shape it without having to overlap it at all, or create gaps. Once you get your shape done with the plastic tape, then you can use green or blue masking tape behind of it for the large areas.

You want to use this kind of tape because it is extremely thin...this keeps the paint from building up at the edges of the tape and making it look like amateur night on your case! You also want to use thin coats when painting one color over another for this very same reason. If you get it too thick, then things will come out badly.

Also, what XG624 said about sanding and priming is right on for creating smooth paint. Another trick is to prepare the metal surface with denatured alcohol before you primer...this take off any oils or coatings that ALL case manufacturers use to prevent oxidation, and it will let your primer adhere better. Also, using sandable automotive primer is a good option, because after you primer, you can sand things down again with very fine grit sandpaper (say 800 or 1000), which will create a super-smooth finished paint surface. Again, use several light coats, not one heavy one, and keep your strokes and coverage even. If you don't, it will be obvious where you gave the case a few extra shots. If you need more paint in an area, it's better to do a whole additional coat to keep the paint even.

Hope that helps...
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Old 02-18-2006, 12:08 PM   #65
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This guide is awsome. I feel about 95% more confident in painting my case...so it's right..and doesnt get bubbles and bumps....
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Old 02-25-2006, 04:58 PM   #66
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Thanks this is useful for me because i was about to repaint my old case. also a good tip for a nice finish is to smooth every coat with increasingly finer sandpaper before painting it again.
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Old 06-28-2006, 03:06 PM   #67
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Great tutorial. Any more tips for someone whos going for more of a candy colored look?
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Old 06-29-2006, 09:06 PM   #68
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I painted mine orange...and got a nice reflection out of it. take your time, and know that this is not a one hit job...its a week job.

my case took about 5 coats of paint and sanding with 2000 grit sand paper...
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:52 AM   #69
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Thank you for this guide. I'm a paint noob'n'boob.
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:41 PM   #70
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question about sanding. i got a biege box and sanded the side panels. do i have to sand down to the bare metal or until the finish is completly removed
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Old 09-08-2006, 05:26 PM   #71
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Technically, you can roughen up the painted panels and paint right over the top. But if you really want to truly do it right, you'll use stripper or sand things down to the bare metal. Then you sand the metal a bit, and then use denatured alcohol on there to remove chemical coatings that all manufacturers put on their boxes to keep them from rusting. Then, prime for about two coats, and then paint as many finish coats as you need.
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Old 11-15-2006, 01:07 PM   #72
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im thinking about painting part of my case like the sides how should i do that?.....the sdies are black now i want to put some yellow in them should i repaint all of it or what
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:49 PM   #73
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Next time, i think it would be acceptable to maek a new topic instead of bumping an old one..

But,

You'd want to sand down the sides and use primer to give the paint a surface to stick to. You'd want to use at least three coats. After that you would ass the base coat.

That is a simple explanation, but using this guide and some searching you'll find the exact process.

What you DONT want to do is just lay down yellow paint you have to scuff up the surface or lay down primer.
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Old 12-30-2006, 12:45 PM   #74
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Is it okay to paint acryllic (plexiglas, lexan, &c)? What kind of look will it give? I'm trying to go for a sorta "car" color look. Would it look right?
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Old 04-05-2007, 07:09 PM   #75
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I am going to spray paint a stencil on plastic and I was wondering if you guys know of a spray adhesive that wont damage paint.
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:02 PM   #76
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I followed this guide to the letter on my case and it came out flawless. The soaking cans in hot water trick really did wonders. it's so seamless, you can't even tell that the panels (factory paited) and the chassis (painted myself) were even different in the beginning
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Old 08-28-2007, 02:57 PM   #77
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I am seeing several references in this multi-page posting regarding ANODIZED cases. Reading TIMBERWOLFS description on anodized cases, how does one know just by looking if a case has been anodized? Are we to assume that all Aluminum cases have been anodized therefore we must do the required 600 to 1000 grit sanding prior to priming?
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:19 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimberWolf View Post
<snip>

Metal parts (including case panels and frames) also usually have an oil or silicone spray coating to prohibit corrosion (or simply lubricate forming operations). Clean them initially with automotive brake cleaner spray, mineral spirits, or laquer thinner (depending on your tolerance for the resulting fumes), and dry them with a blow dryer or heat gun. Handle the parts as little as possible (especially exterior surfaces), and bag them if you're not painting them promptly.

</snip>
Not to flame you but.....

Yea good idea using heat with a potentially flammable source :) Using an air tank or compressor is better/best.
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:21 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by hendersondayton View Post
I am seeing several references in this multi-page posting regarding ANODIZED cases. Reading TIMBERWOLFS description on anodized cases, how does one know just by looking if a case has been anodized? Are we to assume that all Aluminum cases have been anodized therefore we must do the required 600 to 1000 grit sanding prior to priming?
I would say NO. Anodizing is a plating process, or a painting process to achieve a LOOK of being anodized. AL inherently doesnt accept paint, which is why you need to sand and prime it first.
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:48 AM   #80
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Not to flame you but.....

Yea good idea using heat with a potentially flammable source :) Using an air tank or compressor is better/best.
Usually air compressors use oil to obtain proper lubrication of the piston assembly, it may leak and when mixing oil and paint..... You get the idea.
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